Sunday 22 October 2023

Bergtatt, Marvellous Marble Mine

Bergtatt, Marvellous Marble Mine

                                     

A chandelier in the marble mine that we would be visiting.


                                      


The bridge across the entrance to Kristiansund.

                                       

A view of the harbour at Kridtiansund, and just a little further on is the Klippfisk Lady, a statue of a lady holding a klipfisk for which the town is famous. The city's wealth was created by selling salted cod known locally as klipfisk whereas stock fish is air dried cod...
...and the stone built church on the far side of the harbour...
...the town's waterfall...
...the Atlantic tunnel 5.7 kilometres long and up to 250 metres below sea level. Newly built tunnel and bridges have a toll to repay the cost of construction but once the costs are recovered, passage is free.

The stone circle where king Harald Fairhair swore to unite Norway, which at the time was a divided area with chieftains and minor kings governing just their own area. He was in love with a beautiful women, the daughter of a rich family but her response to his proposal of marriage was that she would only marry the king of Norway,

Harald Fairhair swore an oath in that stone circle tat he would not shave his beard or cut his hair until he had united Norway. He set about his task and by 885AD he had united the country and married his love.

It was a long drive through forest and countryside. There are a lot of deer in the forests but only a few moose as they don't like each other. Where there is a lot of one, there are few of the other. The bears were hunted and were either killed or moved away. The top predators here today are wolverine and the elusive lynx, although we saw no big animals.
The shore line is littered with small islands and sherries sticking out of the water making navigation difficult in these shallow waters. 
We were driving along the Atlantic Road.
The Atlantic Road is only eight kilometres long but it has eight bridges connecting a series of small islands.
The sunset.
A memorial to lives lost at sea.



And then it was the main event for which the Atlantic Road is so well known, the bridge and road that featured in the James Bond film, No Time to Die.

No need for any text...just pictures, poor quality as the light was behind the bridge and failing fast.


There is a coastal path around the island at the eastern end of the bridge but it only takes 15 minutes to amble around the island.

Another view of the bridge...
...and a picture of the road disappearing into the sky.

The view from the coach at the top of the bridge looking down at two more islands and two more bridges before reaching the mainland. The cost of this bridge was recovered far quicker than expected due to the number of tourists visiting it. 

On one stormy night, the weather was so rough that it destroyed the toll booth and the locals were delighted to have toll free access for a week until the booth was reinstated. 
We passed through Eide, famous for its stone, especially for tombstones. We parked underground outside the entrance to the visitor centre formed out of a massive chamber left after the marble had been exhausted from this particular part of the mine.
There was an entrance to another chamber called the Grand Hall. There were facilities in one corner...
...and marble chandeliers hanging from the ceiling.
A detail of one of the chandeliers, weighing 300 kilos...
...another chandelier weighing 700 kilos... 
We put on helmets and life jackets and boarded some boats to take us through some of the flooded former mine workings. An electric light but made to look like a shimmering paraffin lamp.
Some chandeliers with the lights reflected off the surface of the water.
The Mountain Goddess.
An underground reception area. The desk is made from marble with ordinary lights behind it and shining through the marble.
A detail of the chandelier.
The water  is full of minerals with a ph of 8.4 so it is alleged to be very beneficial and we had a tasting. Then it was time to show some tricks, such as shining a torch through a polished slab of marble. The white is pure marble, the black is host rock and the red and oranges are where minerals have leached into the marble to give it colour.
A piece of pure marble sitting on top of a torch and the light is defused in all directions by the marble.
Leaving the reception area with underwater lights illuminating the crystal clear waters which in places is up to 12 metres deep. We navigated through several more flooded tunnels on silent electric boats back to the concert hall.
One of the wall lights in the concert hall.
The stage and the tables set in front of it. We were treated to some beef soup and bread as we watched a pop concert that had been recorded in the underground concert hall.
Off to one side was a large collection of miners' lamps dating as far back as 1850s although this mine had only started in 1930s.

After our soup, we watched a documentary film of work in the marble mine and the use of explosives to break down the solid rock to manageable rubble.  The tunnels are wide and high for the giant Caterpillar trucks and bulldozers to move the marble to the crushers. Most of the marble mined here is for use in the paper industry to produce those glossy magazines. Only when they receive an order for a block of marble to be cut and polished into chandeliers or furniture do they have to carefully extract a block of marble.

At the end of the tour, we rebounded the coach and drove out of the mine and back along the road to reach Molde, the city of roses. It was English nobility the first saw the roses grown here so far north. The Gulf stream runs past Molde and gives it just the right climate for growing roses and they called it the City of Roses and the name stuck.

Molde is also known as the city of literature as Norways first Nobel prize winner for literature came from here. It is also known as the city of jazz as there is a big jazz festival in July every year with artists performing from all over the world. So much going on for a town that I hadn't heard of before.

We passed the statue of a women with a basket, the Flower Woman. During the summer, her basket is filled with fresh roses. We were dropped off at the harbour and we saw our ship come into port and berth. We went aboard as some passengers and some of the crew who had finished their tour of duty got off and in no time at all, we were on our way.

Salmon Farming in Norway

Salmon Farming in Norway

Fish farming and filleting in Norway

I checked before breakfast whilst it was still dark but the northern lights had gone. But it was a busy morning and we passed another Hurtigruten Coastal Express going north off our port beam. There are daily sailings so we see one every day.
And yet more shipping, a rig support vessel and a coaster.
And then it was an escape from the Arctic as we passed the globe on the island that marked the Arctic Circle.
A close up of the globe.
And of course there was another ceremony, not ice down your back but this time a case of cod liver oil, being held up by Sigmund, the Hotel Manager.
A close up of the bottle. Explorers found this particularly useful in ensuring that they had the right vitamins when exploring in the cold, dark Arctic.
Raymond the captain drank his out of a glass. Rune, the lead in the Coastal Experience Team said that the captain was 94 years old but that the daily dose of cod liver oil made him look young.
Then it was the passengers turn to pick up a spoon and try cog liver oil. Many jokes are made about it but it is really not as bad as you might expect.

The Helgelandsbrua which connects the island on which Sandnessjøen sits, our next port of call, with the mainland. 

A boat cuts through our wash as we dock at Sandnessjøen. We set off again and were soon passing the Seven Sisters...

...the first three....
                                        
followed by the four in front, the two close together on the left are twins.

There were two troll kings who didn't agree on much except that their children needed more discipline. Th northern king had a wayward son who chased women trolls called the Horseman. The southern king had seven daughters who he sent to a maiden troll to teach them how to be good lady trolls. They were swimming when the Horseman saw them and fell in love. He started to chase them but realised that they were faster than he was.


He thought that if he couldn't have his love, then no one would. He raised his bow and fired an arrow but another troll witnessed the scene and threw his hat in the way of the arrow. The arrow pierced the hat and fell to the ground. But with all this action, they hadn't kept a note of the time and it was sunrise and all the trolls turned to stone. The Seven Sistera turned to stone just south of Sandnessjøen, The chasing troll became the Horseman Mountain near the island with the globe on it marking the arctic Circle and the hat became Torghatten Mountain with a curious hole in it. which people who don't believe in trolls think is just a cave through the mountain, but the troll story is much better at describing the creation of these features.


The Seven Sisters from further along the coast.

The tallest structure in Brønnøysund, the bridge connecting several small islands to the mainland.

The church is the second tallest structure built of stone in 1870 after the previous church (and several before it) which had been made of wood but had burned down.
                                        
We crossed the bridge to reach the salmon fish farm. The cages on the right were empty.
The control centre, floating on the end of the floating pier.
One of the cages, circumference of 60 metres and 19 metres deep. It originally had 5,000 fish but they are going to the slaughter house and only 500 are left. And since they are fewer, the netting has been pulled up and hung on hooks to reduce the depth of the cage. Commercial farms have cages with a circumference of 180 metres up to 60 metres deep holding 200,000 fish.
Some of the netting that has been pulled up bulging from the hooks around the inside of the top of the cage.
The silo holding the food pellets which are moved by air pressure ti the central feeding hub in each cage. There is no feeding hub in the above cage as they are about to go to slaughter and their stomachs must be empty.
This is a central post that would hold the central feeder (removed for maintenance) and it usually sits in the middle of the cage and when the fish are small, there are nets that street from the sides of the cage and over this centre mounting to keep the birds away. Once the fish are large enough, they are too big for the birds to catch so the bird netting can be removed.


aside the floating control room with a fish on the table ready to be filleted.
A blurry photo of a scoop of food pellets, made from soya, seaweed, fish flour and aspartame. Salmon naturally is a white meat but if it consumes enough shrimps, its meat turns salmon pink. The taste is the same but the buying public expect pink salmon, hence the need for additional natural colouring.

The roe are hatched in fresh water in a hatchery, large tanks inside a warehouse. The eggs become fry with an egg sack which they consume and become smelt. When they are big enough, they under go smoltification, a gradual introduction to salt water with fresh water slowly becoming the salinity of sea water. Then they are ready to be dispatched to cages in fjords or sheltered sea locations.

Before they are released, they are vaccinated against various diseases and against fish lice but the lice have become resistant to the vaccine. A natural counter lice option is to house wrasse with the salmon who eat lice but to them, it is only a snack, no a vital or integral part of their diet. Lice can't survive in warm or fresh water so an alternative is for the salon to be hoovered up and passed through either warm or freshwater which controls the spread off the lice. A last resort is medication.


Our guide filleting a fish. Several fish are captured regularly to check for lice, health, weight...

...the fillet...
...and to check for colour.
The fish farm is part of a private higher education establishment that teaches aquaculture.

The Brønnøysund bridge at sunset.
                                        

Sunset at sea.
Torghatten, the hat that saved one of the Seven Sisters from the arrow...
...the hole in the hat that the arrow made...
...another view...

...and a close up, the best I could do with my toy camera, at dusk in failing light and at a distance the arrow how is clear to see.

                                                 
That evening there was a special celebratory dinner to commemorate Richard With's founding of the Hurtigruten shipping company and 130 years of operations. The first course was a plate of cured meat and the second was green pea soup. In my eagerness to try them and satiate my appetite, I forgot to take any photos. And I just had to try some Norwegian wine, a 10% abv rose, not my first choice but if it was local, I had to try it.

                                       

The main course was Bona fish (there was also a choice of braised beef cheek).


The cheese course from local suppliers.

An finally the dessert, a sponge cake from Svolvaer.