Monday 30 September 2019

Pylon

Pylos, on the Volga.

After yesterdays wooden architecture museum, this was a visit to a small town, perhaps Russia's smallest town as it has just 2,500 inhabitants but was bigger in the past as it has nine churches, five museums, a theatre and many colourful houses and intricately carved features. And many of the historic houses have notice boards outside advising some details of the history of the house.

 Another beautifully preserved house.


 A colourful brick built house down on the river front, a former merchants house.
 One of the many churches in the town.
 Some of the houses are in need of renovation.
 A detailed view of some of the fretwork around the windows.
 The Volga freezes over for six paths of the year and ice depths reach about half a metre at this town. Boats must either be sailed south to warmer areas that don't freeze, pulled out of the water on to land one on to their own wooden standing out of the water.
 Another great piece of building a lot of work done on it to preserve it before it becomes just a pile of wood and rubble. heritage but sadly needing
 A beautifully preserved traditional church.

 Another occupied house but although it looks old and tradition, it has had some massive refurbishment and modernisation


 A few more colourful houses and although similar in design, they are on opposite sides of the street...the blue one...
 ...and the green one.
 But this was the most elaborate fretwork and colours that I found in the town.










Kostrama

Kostrama

And today's city is Kostrama just 70 kms down the Volga from Yaroslavl. We moored at the pier besides the site of the kremlin. The original buildings here were blown up by the Bolsheviks in 1930's and the area turned into a park but one structure survived. The Romanov tsars came from here and a plinth had been built to celebrate 300 years of Romanov rule but the First World War interrupted construction and the states of the tsar was never completed. But the Bolsheviks used the unfinished plinth to place a statue of Lenin and hence the odd mixture of architectural styles.

Although the original buildings were destroyed, there is a construction site in operation as a replica cathedral is being built according to the original plans and photos.
In the main square are several important buildings including this one of one of the many wealthy merchants who wanted to show off their wealth and success.
Another building of the municipality offices and behind it is not a light house but a fire station as when the city was originally built, it was all made in wood and subject to devastating fires so a fire watch was kept.
Ivan the Long Arm was a local hero. He didn't have particularly long arms but it was a reference to his quest to expand the empire and the lands under his control to far away places.
The Ipatiev Monastery viewed from the bridge over the Kostrama River where it joins the Volga.
A view of the cathedral within the thick walls of the monastery.
The separate bell tower.
It wasn't just a monastery but it was also a fortress and hence the massive walls. The Romanov tsar dynasty came from here and they had the Romanov Hall within the walls of the monastery to shelter from attack when there was trouble in the local area.
One of the entrances to the monastery.
And then it was off to one of my favourite sites to see, the Kostrama Museum of Wooden Architecture. This is a collection of wooden buildings rescued from the local area to display what live was like and how buildings were built in the 16th to 19th centuries. Some are just the buildings and others are furnished just as they might have been when they were first built.

A farm house complex of a wealthy farmer with the house to the right and the farm cowsheds and barn to the left.
A wealthy merchants house.
A peasant's house.
A 17th century chapel.
A large farm complex with the farmers living area on the top floor and the animals would be housed underneath with a ramp to some upper storage area for straw and hay.
The living area inside the farmhouse.
A peasants house.
The oven that heated the house, cooked the food and the family slept on it in the winter.
The kitchen area.
A detail of one of the bedrooms.
A wealthy timber merchants home and a small workshop to the left.
Inside view of one of the living areas.
Even the wealthy also had an oven and in the depths of a cold winter, they would sleep on top of the oven.
Another view of the living area.
The main reception area used to receive guests.
Another living area where the women would chat, spin wool, make clothes and do other domestic duties.
And every house would have a corner devoted to a saint, a small altar and to display some icons.
A simple 17th century windmill but lacking its sails.
A much more elaborate windmill, again without sails, but for use by the whole village with extra storage areas.
One of several churches on site, a small summer church as it was too large to be kept warm in winter.
A large 18th century village church for use in both winter and summer.
A display of garments and a partial view of the icon wall in the background inside the village church.


Pylos on the Volga

Pylos on the Volga, Russia

After the museum of wooden architecture yesterday, today's stop was in Russia's smallest town, fewer than 2,500 people live in Pylos. It has no industry or railway and it seems as if time has passed it by as it is full of traditional buildings but its rural position, lack of facilities and lack job opportunities is a major drawback so it is has been preserved as a living 19th century town that spreads along the banks of the Volga where two streams have cut down the bank and join the Volga.

It is full of beautiful buildings although many need some attention but each of the significant buildings have a little sign outside although they are only in Russian.

A colourful single storey building with a room in the eaves.

 A more substantial brick built building.
A single storey wood built house showing round wall construction and ornamental fretwork.

A colourful two storey building of a former merchant overlooking the river.
 One of many churches in the small town.
 Some of the buildings need some renovation.
 A detail of the fretwork around the windows.
 The river freezes in October and stays frozen until April and the ice can be half a metre which so it would crush small boats and those that are not then on to land are pulled up onto their own pier.
 Another building in need of restoration.
 One of the two main churches.
 The church overlooking the river,.
 And more colourful examples of traditional architecture...

 ...similar layout but on a different slope and colour...

The belfry of the church nearest to the cruise boat landing...
...and a fabulously decorated cottage.