Thursday 22 February 2018

Limbe, Cameroon

After the climb up Mount Cameroon, I went back to the hotel on the beach through the Botanical Gardens and back to a nice swimming pool.
 The hotel is on the beach front but there is no beach, just rocks and a lot of rubbish washed ashore.
The best fish restaurant in town was just above us and they have a wonderful barracuda steak.
The oil rig was still off shore...
 ...and its support vessel was still in attendance.
 But after such a gruelling hike up the mountain, I had an upgrade irrespective of the cost.
And then it was a drive day through Douala to Kirba and a camp on the beach for a couple of days.

Mount Cameroon

And the next challenge was trekking up West Africa's highest mountain, Mount Cameroon with its peak at 4,095m...and we would be starting at 1,010m so it is quite a challenge. My three trekking companions, our guide, Brandan on the right and three of our porters.


We started out walking through fields and this is a picture of a cucumber growing on a three.
This is a mystical mountain and in Tolkein style, this is a hobbits doorway.
This is an eyesore, thrown away bottles and plastic wrapping. The day before was the Race for Hope, a mountain race up to the summit and back, sponsored by Tanqui mineral waters, a local subsidiary of  Vichy International but unfortunately they had not organised any clear up and there was debris scattered cross the mountain as we trekked up and it would be blown around until someone organised a clear up.
The four of us under the entrance to the National Park.
The first hut, a former ranger station.
One of the giant trees that grow in the jungle slopes of the mountain.
Just above the tree line, a view down to the jungle and the start of the savannah.
This is why the trail is so gruelling as it is a relentless steep incline.
New `Hut, one of the stops on the trek upwards.
A view of the surrounding scenery.
 A surprise for us, the main building at Hut No2 which was a restaurant and bar although the beer was three times the price of the hotel that we had left on the coast.
One of the chalets that were available.

A quirky design...
...the dormitory building where our porters would be sleeping...
...and despite the opulence and luxury around us, we were camping.


An opening to a lava tunnel, a cave within the lava field formed when the surface of the lave has solidified and the liquid lava underneath finds another route and flows out leaving a tunnel. These are favourite places for bats but there were none in this particular tunnel.



Another hut, Hut No3 just 5oom underneath the summit.
A cinder field through which we had to trudge to reach the summit. Its a bit like walking through sand, very tiring, a strain on the legs and every step slips back as you try to climb up.

At last, the summit.
This volcano is unusual as the summit is not on the edge of the caldera and in fact there is no main caldera but eruptions come from a number of separate vents and fissures. One of the vents near the summit.

 A fissure near the summit.
One of the many vents around the top of the mountain.
 A view back towards the summit overlooking a lava field from a fissure in the middle distance.
The vents from the last eruption in 2000 and in the foreground the vent from the 1982 eruption which are all above the same line of weakness so form a neat straight line. 

 Our next hut campsite and again quite a surprise as we had not been told that there were hot showers, toilets and a bar.
 The cooking hut with our guide, Brandan in the mauve teeshirt.

The lava field that we crossed first thing in the morning.

The lava field from the 2000 eruption just colonised by moss.
The lave field from the 1982 eruption which being a couple of decades earlier has more grasses growing on it.
And then as we descended, we got back to jungle which gave us shade from the sun but it was airless and humid.
 And some giant elephant ear palms.
And you know when you are getting back to civilisation as there are clearings in the forest ready for planting a crop.
 A chameleon.
And a colourful bird whose name I forget but Mike Brandon will name it in two seconds.




Tuesday 20 February 2018

Limbe, Cameroon

We crossed the border opposite Ikom from Nigeria into Cameroon. There are lots of stories to tell but you will have to wait until another time when I am out of the country with better internet. The road from the border to the next town was so much better than the guide book had warned. It used to be bad but it had been upgraded with Chinese money and now was a great road with smooth tarmac and a gigantic viaduct across a river. The picture doesn't do it justice as it curves across the mountain off to the left of the photo.

We reached `Limbe which was to be our location for the next week. We were camping in the grounds of a hotel which overlooked the shore and several islands. And parked in the bay was an oil rig.
A view of some of the islands.
The hotel was positioned on the beach front of the botanical gardens so it was a central peaceful location. The gardens were interesting and one of the top three things to see in the city but it was a lot extra to photograph so I saved my money and unreality, there weren't a lot of unique specimens in the gardens so I didn't miss out.
There had been several Land Rovers on site as part of the gardens vehicle fleet but regrettably they were all now redundant.
 Another of the former fleet.

 And yet another this time almost buried to the tyres.
And the last running vehicle. Just a few spare parts would let them run again but the budget did not stretch to a few extra cheap parts and so perfectly good vehicles lay rusting away. Not such an unusual situation in Africa where capital aid is given to set up a project but there is no extra money for maintenance so the project aims reneger realised long term.

The hotel was a great setting with a bar, restaurant and a pool.
 It over looked the sea but the coast just here is rocky so no sandy beaches. This is the picture at high tide but the rocks and rubbish would dissuade anyone from trying to have a swim in the sea.
A picture of the oil rig just off shore in front of one of the many islands.
 And its support vessel moored just a kilometre away.
 And above the hotel swimming pool with the truck in the right of the picture is the Hot Spot Restaurant which is the best seafood restaurant in Limbe,

And then for me it was the challenge to climb Mount Cameroon, the highest mountain in west Africa.