Monday 22 June 2015

On board the Condor Sunday 21st June 2015

I can thoroughly recommend flying with Condor...the food was excellent and must rank in the top three best airlines for in flight meals, great food, well presented, hot but not too dried and metal cutlery. It is a shame that XL airways were also in the top three until the Icelandic crash eventually caused them to go bankrupt so one less excellent in flight food provider.

Here are views of a couple of the meals. Note the small plastic airplane in the first photo which is for salt and pepper. I was looking forward to getting another one with the second meal but there wasn't another one.



My first night in Canada was spent in Days Inn in Whitehorse but their internet connection is of doubtful quality and security so I am huddled in a cafe shop. The next section of the trip is canoeing down the Yukon River to Dawson and I will be out of internet contact for the next three weeks so there will be no posts for a while.

Leaving Greenland Sunday 21st June 2015

The next hour and a half it was the snow took over and covered everything and it was just a sea of white without any dark rock, crevasses or shadows.

Then as we passed over the far side of Greenland we were treated to more sea ice, glaciers and ice bergs.



Greenland, Sunday 21st June 2015

Heading inland we saw glaciers pushing their way to the sea, tumbling off the ice cap down the sides of mountains and an ice berg trapped in sea ice in a flooded valley and a collection of corries.







Whitehorse, Sunday 21st June 2015

I have made it to the start in Whitehorse, the capital of the Yukon. The flight took off at 14.20 and arrived 14.50 but unfortunately there is a nine hour time difference so its a long flight north over the North Sea, past Stravager in Norway arcing to the north of Greenland just south of Ittoqqortoormiit and then over Baffin Bay, Resolute and into Whitehorse.

Te approach to Greenland was fascinating. There was some thin cloud but to the naked eye there was plenty to see and the eye compensates from the cloud and the glass of the aircraft window but the pictures aren't so good but it gives an idea. And this is from 32,000 feet so some of those lumps of ice are pretty big.










Sunday 21 June 2015

Frankfurt, Saturday 20th June 2015

So the big trip has finally started. A picture of me grinning like a Cheshire cat at my local station. I asked one a fellow passenger to take a photo of me and the station name and as she stepped back to get  a wider view her partner grabbed he just before she stepped off the edge of the platform to hoots of laughter from the rest of the party. It was hard to keep a straight face with everyone laughing!
Next stop was Heathrow for a flight to Frankfurt...always annoying as the train goes through Gatwick, my local international airport to get to Heathrow but there are no direct flights from Gatwick to Frankfurt.

The rucksack had too many straps hanging off it so it had to be handled as over size luggage. This meant it got 'special handling' at the other end. An electric tug pulling a trailer with just my ruck sack on the back stopped and unceremoniously dumped it off on its own carousel at the far end of the baggage reclaim.



Most people personalise their luggage and for this trip you will see the Herdy key fob. The story of the Herdy brand is fascinating to me.

It was started by a Lake District sheep farmer who was passionate about his sheep. The local traditional sheep breed is known as the Herdwick. It was bred to withstand the changeable weather, the wind and the cold. The Herdwick sheep breed lent its name to the brand name. That farmer started using social media as the Herdy Shepherd to tell the world about his daily life with his sheep and in 2007 launched the brand with three simple products.

He knows his sheep individually which is important as the area is unfenced and the sheep can roam freely across the fells. His hill farm is located near Wast Water which is part of the most remote area within the Lake District. Despite the ability of the sheep to just walk and walk across the fells, many of them have their own patch of fell where they live. One particular ewe can always be found within 200 metres of one particular peak.

Sheep are let loose on the fells after lambing until they are rounded up in the autumn.. Sometimes sheep do wander and when rounded up end up on the wrong farm. Farmers are happy to co-operate amongst them selves to return sheep to the rightful owner.

There are sixteen lakes larger than 0.5km2  and dozens of smaller bodies of water. However the Lake District is a misnomer as most of these bodies of water are called waters or meres and the smaller ones are called tarns. There is only one specifically named lake in the Lake District, Bassenthwaite Lake.

The brand has increased its product range and now has three of its own shops in Keswick, Hawes and Grasmere selling all sorts of Herdy branded products. It also sells a wide product range through over 250 other UK retailers, and exports overseas. But it has not lost its core purpose, promoting the Herdwick sheep, providing local employment and supporting good causes.

The Herdy Shepherd still goes out every day up high into the remote fells to check on his sheep and has over 60,000 followers. 


Friday 19 June 2015

Silk Road Previous trips Friday 19th June

Silk Road

Several people have emailed to ask why some of my other recent trips don't feature. I had problems during the trip from Turkmenistan across the Caspian and through the Caucasus as social media is banned and internet connections were poor or expensive so no postings.

Last years overland London to Beijing trip along the Silk Road faced similar problems. However I was in email contact so I sent emails and my good friend Bob created  another blog, link below.

Wednesday 17 June 2015

Horsham Wednesday 17th June 2015

I was asked yesterday what do I take to go away for a long trip. I am not going to provide a list but I did take a photo of everything (except for the laptop and the camera). I have to lug this lot around plus a tent, camping equipment and food for the trek over the mountains which I will pick up when I get to the start. Therefore I have purposefully kept it to a minimum. It is a bit bulky but weighs just 13kg.

Anything else that I might have forgotten I will have to buy en route. I am now packed, I have the currency, had my jabs, travel documents and yellow fever certificate. I am now ready to go and just have to wait a couple of days when I leave the UK..

Monday 15 June 2015

Flooding in Tblisi, Georgia over the weekend, 14th June 2015

Those of you who keep up with events overseas and natural catastrophes will have heard about the flooding in Tblisi. The capitals zoo was flooded and hundreds of animals were either drowned or escaped and there were dangerous animals including lions, bears and hippopotami (the correct Latin plural for these animals) roaming the streets in central Tblisi.

I was there in October 2014 and stayed at the Hotel Istanbul which is just opposite the zoo on the other side of the river only a short walk away across the Queen Tamar bridge. The main river has cut a deep gorge through the mountainous terrain which restricts river flow when there is a lot of rain as there had been in recent weeks.

The zoo itself is located up a small tributary of the main Mtkvari River that flows through central Tblisi. When water levels rose, water backed up the tributary and flooded the zoo, drowning many of the hapless creatures. Those that escaped roamed the local area or were washed down to the central city area. I watched a lot of film coverage and was looking out for familiar sky line.

The main problem is a constriction in the valley bottom just s short distance downstream. The Metchhi church is built on top of a bluff over looking the river. There is a bridge opposite and a view back towards the church. The river rose over six metres and a lot of this area would have been under water.


The constriction in the river was also an ancient critical crossing point to control trade and movement of people. Hence the castle on top of the hill and one of my first selfies. Its a bit of a climb to get up but the architecture on route, both ecclesiastical and secular is worth it. There is also a cable car with the top station visible to the right of the castle so one way can be taken in comfort and you can appreciate the views.

Tblisi was named after the warm water that was found here that bubbled up naturally from hot springs on the southern end of the bridge up a small tributary. There are several spas still operating, the  more affordable ones being on the left but the most up market one is on the right, built with so many azure tiles that it looks more like a mosque than a spa. This is located a short walk from the bridge over the river.

With such catastrophic flooding, this area would have suffered a lot of damage and I will be contributing to the disaster effort when an appeal is launched. I would urge everyone else to also contribute to the restoration of the history of the city and to restore the zoo.

To end on an up note just before arriving in Tblisi I visited the David Gareji Monastery right on the border between Gerogia and Azerbaijan to the south. It is set in a remote sensitive and mountainous border region. It is a bit of trouble to get there but worth the effort. After leaving the local town of Sagarejo the roads deteriorate and finally it is over an hour of just tracks.




The monastery was originally carved out of the rock but buildings have been added since to extend the facility.





The Azeri border is literally at the top of the hill behind the monastery and there are frequent military patrols that check passports and visas and access can be restricted at a moments notice. One such incident had happened two days before so we were grateful to get access with being stopped.

It is a beautiful location with a small chapel built on the spine of the hill. It is as undeveloped as it must have been hundreds of years ago  and some of the surrounding scenery can be seen in the background. The best pieces of art are in the man made caves hollowed out of the rock just beneath the spine, unfortunately on the Azeri side so not every one gets to see them on a visit.




Sunday 14 June 2015

Recently I went to see the Olympic village in east London so I was a tourist in my own country. There are some photos below of the day starting with the velodrome...where else? And not to lose out on the cycle theme, I just had to have a go at cycling.












Considering what a complete dump the area had been thirty years ago, polluted, run down, derelict, dilapidated and I had been here through the area on business several times, this was a complete transformation between then and now after the the Olympic upgrade. It is now an up and coming area and flats in tall modern iconic buildings are sought after and sell for hundreds of thousands.

Next stop after the velodrome was the ArcelorMittal Orbit, a tower of metal stretching 120 metres skyward giving great views across the London metropolis. It is an unusual structure with the viewing platform sticking out to one side and not a place to visit for those of a nervous disposition. It was expensive but you do get gret views across the capital on a good day and the ticket is valid for a year for repeat visit.

There are plenty of tall structures that architects must have been pleased to put their names to but one particular building caught my eye as if the builders had cut a couple of corners and in fact had omitted to build the sixth floor of this twelve floor building.

Then it was on to the Emirates Airline, basically a trip on a cable car across the Thames to link the Olympic village to Greenwich with its Olympic sites for various sports and the Millenium Dome, now know as the O2 Arena. A very expensive trip (unless you pre book) for a ten minute ride in a cable car and you would get better value from a ski pass valid for a week in the Alps.

Last stop was a visit to the Museum of Childhood. A museum of toys and childhood pastimes...do you recognise these two dudes? and who would own up to owning one of these bikes?

Tuesday 9 June 2015

Mountain biking...a bit of mud, Tuesday 9th June 2015

I went off road mountain biking the other day. It was great fun and I had forgotten how much fun it can be as I had not done any for a while. I was aware that it was muddy but I was aware of how much was on my face until I was sent this photo.

Karakoram

Karakoram

Ever since I went to northern Pakistan, I have been invited to join the KJTI exhibition stand at the Adventure Travel Show and the Destinations Show by the Karakoram Jeep Trek International management who organised my original trip. Both shows occur in January in London at a time when it s cold and wet and people are traditionally looking forward to some kind of summer holiday.

They like to have former travellers on the stand to talk to prospective travellers to speak from a personal view point. Having experienced all of the options on offer I can talk through each of the options available with personal experience.

I find it a very rewarding few days partly to relive my trips and to interact with travellers and to hear about their own adventures. It is also a great place to meet other exhibitors and to see what else is on offer. Unfortunately there are a great many options available and it does tend to add to your bucket list so you have been warned!

Below are a few photos, the first one is of me at the show this year with Kwame who went to northern Pakistan the year before me. The other two in the picture are me in my shalwaar chemise or the traditional local dress and Fran who I met during my journeys through Baltistan and together we went on a long trek to K2 base camp.