Friday 23 November 2018

New book coming out soon - 'Across the Caspian'

Sub titled  'An adventure through The Caucasus to Mount Elbrus'.

This is a sneak preview of the cover. I had hoped that it would be out a long time before Christmas so that you could buy it as a present but there have been some production delays.


Inside is the journey through the Caucasus from Europe’s lowest point on the  shores of the Caspian Sea to its highest point on the summit of Mount Elbrus. The route follows a strand of the Silk Road from Ashgabat, the capital of Turkmenistan through the desert to catch a ferry across the Caspian to Baku.
From there the journey winds through some of the history of The Caucasus with its ancient kingdoms and the landscape of Azerbaijan and across the border into Georgia. This country is famous for its distinctive and good quality wines plus a large number of churches and monasteries, an enclave of Christianity surrounded by populations that are predominantly Muslim. 

Mount Elbrus is actually in Russia to the north and the border was shut so it meant a diversion through Cappadocia in Turkey before approaching Mount Elbrus from the Russian side of the border for the attempt on the summit, which at an elevation of 5,862m is Europe’s highest mountain.

Wednesday 17 October 2018

Finisterre at last!

After walking 900 kms, I am finally nearing the end of El Camino. I left Cee and walked through the picturesque village of Corcubion (I know it has an accent on the last 'o' but I don't know where it is on my keyboard so apologises for the misspelling). The architectural feature here is common throughout Galicia being the glassed enclosed balcony on many of the older buildings at to near the top of the building. It captures the light and warms the inside in the colder months and gives great views over the town



                                      

Another example of the enclosed balcony.
But I didn't forget to look down as well as up and  found another Land Rover to add to my photo collection.
I climbed the hill behind the small fishing village and could see a bank of sea fog that the sun had yet to dispel.
 I walked over the top of the promontory and was at last rewarded with my first view of the Atlantic uninterrupted by any land all the way across the Atlantic to America.
But I still had some distance to go to get to the end of El Camino. My constant companion had been the waymrakers all along the route, granite columns with the scallop shell, a yellow arrow indicating the way to go and below it, the distance still to go to the end. This marker indicates just 12.613 km to go and all of the markers gave distances down to three decimal places. This way marker also has a pair of walking boots on top of it. Many of the markers have stones placed on top of them by passing pilgrims and towards the end of the trail, and certainly for the last 100 kms, it is common to see shoes placed on top as pilgrims wear out a pair and leave them behind.
This was just an unusual sight en route of more than a dozen one ton bags of apples just left at the side of the road in front of a derelict house. No reason and no explanation yet someone had picked all the apples and unloaded them here.

 And finally a view of Finisterre, in Spanish called Fisterra across the bay on a peninsular with the end of El Camino on the tip of the peninsular to the far left of the picture.
 The cross at the headland.
The very last way marker with 0.000 kilometres and no yellow arrow as this is the end.
 The lighthouse at the end of the peninsular.
 And a selfie of me and the lighthouse to prove that I had reached the end.

El Camino to Finisterre

I left Santiago and it was a lot nicer walking ut of the city than walking into it as it was through parks and quickly into the countryside. But there were still some city influence such as this vending machine and table and chairs in someones front garden.

 And you know that you are in Galicia as there are horreos everywhere, granaries for storing the crops for the winter s I started a little collection of different types. But they all have an overlap at the top of the columns to prevent vermin from raiding the granary.
Another one in someones front garden.
A nicely renovated one.

And an old one.
And another and note the cross at one end and the pinnacle at the near end.
The wire from the old bridge near Barca.
The Roman mill which has recently been refurbished.
And the ancient bridge although it was rebuilt in 17th century.
Another horse with stone sides sitting on eight staddles, the mushroom like stone columns to prevent rats from climbing up and into the granary.
Pumpkins reminiscent of that scene in Harry Potter.
And after more than 800 kms, a glimpse of the Atlantic at Cee, a small village before Finisterre but obscured by rain and mist.
The rain and mist began to clear, here looking out over the centre of Cee.
The beach and the harbour at Cee, my last stop before moving on to Finisterre tomorrow.

Saturday 13 October 2018

Santiago de Compostela

We stopped for lunch at a pulperia, a cafe specialising in a local dish of squid which are simply boiled and served with a sprinkling of paprika. Other dishes are available for non squid eaters.
 A view of the meal served with tuna pie, potatoes the dish of squid, bread and the wine and water were served in ceramic bowls.
 His and her coffees!

 A view of the countryside as we passed through some farmland outside Santiago.
 Nikki and Sue behind me and Rafa just moving out of shot.

 Nikki and Sue behind me.
 The horse box when we had to say goodbye to our horses.
 My trusted horse Lucena being led off to the horse box to get taken home.
 Our last meal together with a starter of langosterias.
 And a plate of cakes for desert.
 And finally the cathedral in Santiago...
 ...and a selfie just to prove that I had completed the 800 km from St Jean Pied de Port to Santiago.
 And one last photo of the horses at the top of a hill with me on the far right.


Portomarin

The riding team from L to R Nikki, Sue, Rafa, Monolo, Marcelino and me having an evening meal in O'Cereibo.
A melee of horses over looking O'Cereibo.
Climbing up a steep hill.
Some of the surrounding countryside.
A view of Portamain as we enter the twon.
The new bridge which in winter is standing in  a reservoir but the reservoir is empty right now.
The fortified Romanesque church. It was moved from its original position when the da down stream of the town was built. The town was subject to a massive flood in the 1960s and the whole town was moved to higher ground.
The shopping arcade.
The main plaza.
Another view of the church.
Entrance to another arcade.
The new bridge and the mediaeval bridge beside it.
A picture of the phenomomen  of cloud in the valley and clear skies further up the hill so common in this area.
The sunrise over Portamarin.
More cloud in the valley looking over the remains of the old Roman town standing out of the river.
And I found a Land Rover in Portomarin!
Marcelino leading the string of horses whilst I took a dic=version to see the top of the Celtic fort at Castromaior.
The string leaving me behind.
Me on top of another mountain.
And the view from the saddle.

The food at our next stop at Palais del Rei was superb, the Ensalade Mixte,
El Pescado (monkfisk)
Pork and chips.
And guess what I found in Palais del Rei?