Sobrado dos Monxes, Galicia

 Sobrado dos Monxes, Galicia  

It had rained during the night and the ground was wey and there was a light drizzle in the air. There was a 26 kilometre walk ahead of us so we had opted for an early breakfast. We were taken back to where we had been picked up in Miraz. The cafe associated with the alberque was open but with just a few pilgrims having breakfast.  As we arrived, one pilgrim was setting off ahead of us. It had rained during the night but the ground here seemed dry and no drizzle which was a turn up for the books.

We set off at 8am although it was still dawn and the light was poor. I accompanied Lesley as I wasn't sure of the route and the markers were hard to see in the gloom. There was a hiccup as the last waymarker pointed uphill but the route was unclear as it split into three separate paths, but all going up. We took the most travelled path and after a climb were rewarded with the sight of another granite pylon a little further ahead. 

Once it was light enough to see ahead and easy to read the markers,we stopped at the next pylon. Lesley put on a cape against the light drizzle and took my fleece off as I was getting too hot and thought that the drizzle was not too bad to warrant wearing waterproofs. I bid Lesley a Buen Camino and picked up the pace. 

The countryside we were walking through was open with just a few trees and some scrub. It was different from the fields and forests that had been such a feature of the last few days. The rock was exposed in places and the soils were thin and hence the lack of trees and fields. 

The trail dipped and there were more fields and trees providing some respite from the drizzle. There was a light wind and the drizzle seemed to come and go. I got damp but when it eased off, I was generating so much heat that body heat and a gentle breeze soon dried my shirt out. Only to be damp again when the drizzle returned. 

At the side of the road, I passed a large red topped mushroom. I desparately tried to remember whether this was a poisonous one, an edible one, or one of those that are labelled 'poisonous' as they have psychedelic properties which imbibers may or may not want to experience. But a note of caution as different mushrooms have different psychedelic effects on different individuals so a little careful  experimentation with a more learned user is advised.  

The day had started out with just a little mist but it had got thicker as the morning progressed. The drizzle had also got a little heavier but I hadn't noticed and always hoped that the weather would get better. 

The guidebook said that the route today would pass through the highest point on El Camino del Norte at 710 metres above sea level at Mancela. I had been up and down a lot of mountains on earlier stretches of El Camino del Norte but these were mainly along the coastal sections where the route crosses an estuary at sea level and then rises up a mountain only to return to sea level. 

Here we were already at a high elevation and away from the coast without the deep river valleys. It didn't seem that we had climbed a long way as we were already high. The road slowly climbed a gentle slope and the name of the village was signpsted at the side of the road. Being at a significant point on El Camino del Norte, I expected there to be a cross or a monument. As I walked through the small settlement, I looked for something significant but saw nothing. I was sure that this was an opportunity missed. 

The route dipped and followed tracks through the forest. It was sheltered from the wind but I had not noticed how the light drizzle with breaks had turned to heavier drizzle and to rain. By the time that I noticed it might be time to put on some waterproofs, I was already wet and it would be pointless putting on waterproofs over seriously wet clothes. I was generating heat by walking, the wind wasn't strong so the chill factor was low and the ambient temperature was adequate.

I had an idea to change into dry clothes and waterproofs but was waiting for an opportunity of a dry bus shelter but there were none. EAventually, I changed into dry clothes under a dripping tree, the best cover I could find and continued.

I reached the lake outside Sobrado dos Monxes and knew that I was just a few kilometres short of Sobrado dos Monxes. 

El Camino takes a side road and passes one side of the monastery but doesn't pass the impressive front facade. If it was a nice day, I would have walked the extra to see the front and the botanical gardens, but it was raining and I was cold, wet, tired and just wanted a hot coffee in a bar.

Another view of the monastery.