Chilkoot Trail
The Famous Golden Stairs
Sheep Camp to Happy Camp Wednesday 15th
July
It was billed as a long and arduous day and best to start
earlier. We were on Yukon time so were up an hour before anyone else. It had
rained during the night and was still damp. The clouds were low and being blown
fairly fast up the pass and it didn’t look like it would clear any time soon.
We were soon above the tree line and exposed.
High on the valley side was the last remaining pile of wood
that was once one of the towers of the aerial ropeway and here we were already
above some of the patches of snow left over from winter.
Every where there were discarded bits from over a hunded years ago scattered across the ground.
We reached the Scales. Here all the gear was reweighed. Professional
packers would charge by the pound, and sometimes went on strike to drive up
prices. Needless items were thrown away and the area is littered with discarded
remnants that were considered worthless. The Scales were operated by the Royal
North West Mounted Police, a forerunner of the Royal Canadian Mounted Police
who ensured that every person crossing the border into Canada had a ton of
supplies to ensure that they could survive for a year in the harsh environment
of the Yukon.
The Golden Staircase was just above us but in the fog there
was little to see so rather disappointing. Check out the internet to see what
it is like on a good day. There was no path, just a jumble of large boulders
that rise 600m in just over a kilometre. It was a long hard climb with a pack
on your back. The climb was easier and safer in the winter as steps could be
cut into the snow and ice. A pair of enterprising brothers cut fresh steps
every morning and charged people to use their stairs.
People unwilling to pay coud use the Petterson Trail, a
neighbouring pass but it was longer and higher and subject to avalanches.
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