Drive from Rio Dulce via San Andres Itzapa to Lago Atitlan,  Wednesday 30th September and Thursday 1st October

It was a late start leaving the cabanas at the marina at Rio Dulce as there were activities planned for the morning. There was a 5am start for the kayakers who were going out to see the sun rise and to look for spider and howler monkeys. No guide was available so Clare, Zoe and I had been given a hand drawn map of the best places to go on the river.


We paddled across the river and downstream on the far bank to Monkey Bay and past Monkey Bay Marina and up some narrow channels. We heard plenty of monkeys and saw several but none clearly enough for  photo.

Then it was the turn of those that wanted to do some yoga so a small group headed off for a walk through the jungle and across some bridges to a nearby tower where we did our yoga.

It was only then that we loaded the bags on to the bus and we left shortly after 10am. It was an uneventful journey with only the occasional landslide that partially blocked the road.

We drove westwards and through some hills and more landslides to reach Guatemala City.

We were skirting the city as our next stop was on the far side of the capital. It is built in the hills and is situated in a mountainous area deeply dissected by ravines. The road itself also follows a winding path through the hills and across ravines. It was also busy with a lot of local traffic. It was akin to the amount of traffic on the M25 around London being squeezed onto a dual carriage way with drivers continually changing lanes so much that it would make Italian drivers look skilful and patient. Add a local Caribbean colour and you are half way to understanding Guatemalan rush hour.

An unusually quiet bit of road with a colourful bus.

Our stop that evening was an Italian funded Foundation in support of local women who have been abandoned and abused, and who are staying in the centre with their children. This is the project to which Luca, the Wanderlust 2012 Guide of the Year, donated part of his bursary and we stayed here to support their cause. We had bought some toys for the children and donated them to the centre.  

Reaching the centre the night before had been a challenge as we arrived in the dark and the rain and had to negotiate a washed out road. The road didn't look so bad in the sun and cold light of day.

After another drive we reached Lago Atitlan high in the mountains. We stopped at a lookout over the lake but the visibility was so poor that we continued to our hotel. Most of the buildings were low rise but these three blocks would have won a prize for the worst development in a scenic area.