Solovetsky Islands and Monastery

I arrived in Kem at 6.35am and passed the obligatory locomotive. Kim in on the shores of the White Sea and it was a foggy morning.

 I met my guide Polina and we had some breakfast in a local cafe.

 Porridge, pancakes and condensed milk, sausage cheese and tea.

 We caught the 10am ferry across the White Sea to reach the Solovetskiy Island Archipelago.

 Leaving Kem and I could see very little.

 Arriving on the island two hours later and it was still foggy and cold.

The pier at which were to disembark.

We went straight to the hotel to leave our luggage. It was a wonderful rustic range of wooden buildings.

And the decor was busy and colourful inside...the main reception

The sitting room.

I had a marvellous view of the monastery from my window, still shrouded in fog.

The main belfry inside the monastery.

The Church of the Transfiguration.

One of the massive towers protecting the walls around the monastery.

And each of the stones that were used to build the walls were big...compare them to me.

The altar inside the Church of the Transfiguration.

The many saints that  decorate the altar.

A detail of one of the arches.

A former church that was stripped in the 1920's.

Some detail of the decorative brickwork.

The little port for the monastery but only used now for pleasure craft.

Two big bells standing in the central square of the monastery.

The restored alter...

...and restoration is still taking place.

Then we went for a walk along the tops of the walls.

A general view of the main courtyard. The roof to the right was destroyed by fire and was only partially rebuilt and hence it looks out of keeping with the there buildings.

A little side chapel that is original as it escaped the great fire.

Another view of the same chapel.

Along the battlements of another wall.

Inside on of the great towers.

Between 1923 - 1939, the island and the monastery was a labour camp. Conditions were harsh but it was an attempt to re-educate those who were a threat to the revolution and the period was known as the Repression. This was one of the first five such camps set up with inmates serving up to three years. The notorious gulag camps that spread throughout the country came a little later but this was the forerunner.

One of the original barracks has been converted into a museum.

Other examples of the barracks are nearby and now contain a shop or living accomadation.

We still had time so my guide Polina and myself hired mountain bikes to cycle over rough tracks to get to the north west of the island to see the Sekirno-Ascension Minor Monastery Sekirno-Ascension Minor Monastery. It would be a 12 kilometre ride over a bumpy surface through the forest.

The main church at the site.

 

A full view from the viewing platform but unfortunately the sun was behind the building so it is not a great picture.

This is the view from the highest point on the island at 72 metres.

Another view of the church. There had been a building here for centuries but this one was built around 1869. The church also incorporates the former light house and the windows of the lantern room can be seen.

Another view of the buildings from the south with the accusation area in the yellow building with the church with the light house fitting in the background.

Then it was a ride back to Solovetsky  Monastery...a dual carriage way on the island.

Me, for once cycling without lycra or a helmet.

The setting sun over the White Sea.

We were just coming out of the hotel after our evening meal and we passed a gentleman checking his phone. Molina said that she was sure that it was Vladimir Meginskt, the Minister of `culture in the Putin government. She checked and there were introductions all round and photos taken with him with the monastery in the background. Me and Meginsky.

Meginsky and my guide Polina.