Tuesday, 14 May 2024

First full day in Armenia

 First full day in Armenia

Still no phots as too wet and misty.

We drove through the rain and down a valley into Dilijani. Our first stop was at the Tourist Information to pick up some local knowledge and maps. The maps were easy. Alan asked about steepness of roads, low hanging wires and gas pipes. The route was clear for Frida. There were two monasteries that we could reach and footpaths through forest, either circular or up to 12 kilometres back to Dilijani. 

I couldn't tie shoelaces so I was wearing sandals and my feet were wet and cold. We were due to bush camp but two people had already booked a hotel. Someone found an excellent and cheap hostel where the procedes went to the community. Our plans changed and we ditched the bush camp and upgraded.

The weather forecast was for more rain. I didn't fancy walking in the rain and cold. I ducked out and went to find my own hotel for the night.

Monday, 13 May 2024

Crossing into Armenia

 Crossing into Armenia

Sorry folks but the weather has been so wet, misty and low cloud that there have been no decent photos to post except...



We departed Telavi, the obvious route had a lot of road works so we took a different route via Ninotsminda, Sagorejo, renowned for its nearby Davit Gareti monastery plus a castle on a hill before and several nodding donkeys so we were passing through one of Georgia’s oil fields.

We reached the border crossing to Armenia. The truck through quickly until it reached Armenian customs. The passengers were through in a reasonable time. We stood around and waited for Alan and Frida. It looks like a truck but it carries passengers, so it is a bus. It is a common problem as buses and lorries are treated and importantly, taxed, differently. Drivers always argued for the cheaper option, typically calling the vehicle a bus. (Although to overlanders, the vehicle is always referred to as a truck; some trips impose penalties for overlanders referring to the vehicle as a bus, for instance, a minor monetary fine towards a communal BBQ drinks kitty or ten press-ups in public).

The whole process took three hours. Whilst we were waiting, it started raining. When the truck had finally through customs having been classified as a bus, we drove into the mountains to find a bush camp in the rain. We passed two unsuitable sites. We just had to stop before it got too dark. The third site wasn’t ideal as the ground sloped and it was next a road that looked quiet but there was intermittent traffic all night, grinding up the steep slope in low gear.

We erected the kitchen awning, put up tents in the rain and except for the cook group, most people sat in the dry on the back of the truck, waiting for our dinner of spaghetti bolognaise. Luckily a simple meal to prepare in adverse conditions.

It rained for most of the night and was still raining at dawn. It held off just long enough to have breakfast and pack away the kitchen awning and the tents before it started again. We drove on to Dilijani and its national park. There are two nearby monasteries to see plus a few sites in the town but it is also a beautiful area known for its hiking trails.

I would normally jump at the chance to go for a walk in the mountains. It was cold, the forecast was for rain all day and we had bush camped for two nights and were scheduled to bush for another nights. I didn’t want to get wet. I couldn’t tie shoelaces as one hand was in a caste and I hadn’t had enough practice to get it right.  

At the last two bush camps, everyone was helpful. They saw me struggling, left me alone for a few minutes to develop my skills using teeth, elbows and just one hand. John thought it quite amusing to watch me struggle with one hand with whatever task I was trying to achieve and how innovative I could be to achieve success.

After those few minutes of leaving me alone to develop some of those one handed skill, someone would come over and sort me out, to tie laces, help my tent buddy to put up the tent, or thread a belt through the trouser loops. I could call on everyone to help me. Most people had either offered general help or specific help such to help my tent buddy take down the tent in the morning.

I still wanted to contribute to the group and they had their own jobs to do. I struggled, they all pitched in to help the group, to help me and to help my tent buddy to erect or pack away our tent.


Saturday, 11 May 2024

Telavi

 Tsinandali and wine tasting

The house.
A loudspeaker disguised as a rock.
Art, few installations in the grounds...
The on site hotel...plus another art installation.


A wish tree
Qvevri.




The wine cellarof Schuckmann's.
The bread and dips...
...and it was soon all over...
but not before we had had an introducton to the wines on offer.


Kasbegi

 


Kasbegi

Beautiful views.



Soviet Monument.

Mountain view at Gadauri.





Breakdown.
Ananauri Fortress,

More fortress.
Traffic jam.
Kvertera Fortress.



Monday, 6 May 2024

Tbilisi

 Tbilisi

I was up early before the crowds poured onto the streets.

My first stop was to view this magnificent facade. It is not a mosque but the entrance to one of the hotspring bath houses.
To one side of this bath house is a bridge over a tributary of the Kura River with dozens of love padlocks.
On the far side of the river is the cheaper, brick built hot spring bath house.
                                        

I crossed the Metekhi Bridge. It is overlooked by the statue of King Vakhtang Gorgasali sitting on a horse who founded the city in 455AD. It is also overlooked by the Metekhi Virgin Mary Assumption Church. 
There were views back from the bridge towards the old centre and the Narikala Fortress.
It is difficult to get lost in the old centre as you can almost always look uo to see the Narikala Fortress, the new cathedral or the TV relay station. Walk down any slope and you will reach the river.
Despite the number of old buildings in the centre, there are plenty of new buildings such as this sphere near the cable car to the Narikala Fortress...
...the modern foorbridge over the Kura River...
...or look up and spot the Mother of Georgia statue. In one hand she holds a bowl filled with wine to welcome friends and in the other hand, she holds a sword to defend the country against enemies.
I walked around the old centre and passed the oldest church in Tbilisi, the Anchiskhati Basilica which dates from the sixth century. 
Despite the number of old buildings, there are plenty of modern buildings, some with an art nouveau style...
...and other structures that do not conform to a particular style, such as the Clock Tower, a modern addition built to look old and weird at the same time.

The Nikoloz Baratashvili Bridge across the river has a number of stylised slender human characters adorning the railings.
Looking upriver are the Public Service Hall, the House of Justice, and the Bank of Georgia, all housed in a modern concrete and glass structure with curving roofs similar to a clutch of mushrooms or a flower according to the guidebook. 
I crossed the river and made my way up the valley side towards the Holy Trinity Church of Tbilisi. It is located high up the valley side and its golden roof can be seen from many locations throughout the city. There is an impressive gate into the complex.
The bells are housed in a separate building to one side of the main structure.
A view of the west facade...
...one of the entrances on the north side...
...the eastern facade...


...and a close up of the western entrance. It was a spendid building but difficult to get a photo of the whole structure.
I continued my wander around the centre and passed several unusual buildings, such as this oddly designed hotel.
A statue of St George in Freedom Square, also called Liberty Square.
I walked around the old centre trying to find some of the caravanserai that I had seen on my previous visit. I found just one that had been converted into a hotel. I searched for others but they had either collapsed or had been transformed so radically that I didn't recognise them.
As I wandered around the centre, I came across more modern sculptures such as a metal tree...
...and a bench whose surfaces were made from welded spanners supported by wheels with a tethered metal dog to one side and a metal doctor's bag resting where someone might want to sit.


I caught the cable car from one side of the river to the other to reach the Narikala Fortress. There were views back across the river and some of the other more modern sights such as the Bridge of Peace footbridge, (also known as the Sanitary Pad Bridge), the sphere (Air Balloon) and two sea cucumber-like structures which were the Rike Musical Theatre and the Exhibition Centre.
There was a good view of the Holy Trinity Church on the opposite side of the valley.
I had wanted to visit the Narikala Fortress but it was closed. It was closed not due to the Easter holidays but due to essential maintenance. Judging by the sun bleached hoardings preventing access, it had been closed for some time and there was no expected opening date displayed.
A short walk along the ridge overlooking the city was the Mother of Georgia statue.
From the top of the cable car, I started to walk down to the old centre. I kept looking for old merchant houses and caravanserai but saw no indications of them. I paused at the Church of Bethlehem. No photos were allowed inside. There were hunderds of devotive candles lit inside. It made the inside of the church glitter in the light, there was a distinctive smell of wax and the temperature inside was noticeable hotter than outside due to the sheer numbers of burning candles.

                               
 I purposefully walked along some of the backstreets. I discovered some fascinating old styles of archetecture, but none of the caravanserai that I was looking for. 

I passed the Georgian Jewish Museum which had been sign posted from various points. The door was open but in keeping with the rest of the world, it was a Monday, and due to some intercontinental conspiracy, all museums across the world are closed on Mondays.