Abidan, Galicia

 Abidan, Galicia 

After a short walk yesterday that started in the rain, I vowed I would not set out in the rain for a day's walking, however short it may be. I ended yesterday cold and wet with sniffles. I felt that I was getting too old to be brazen about it and I could afford the train/bus/taxi alternative to stay dry, comfortable and avoid some blisters and colds. I walked through the suburbs of Mondonedo with Lesley as I didn't want to get lost by myself, but being lost with soneone else didn't hold so much dread.

We reached the Cathedral Plaza where there was a choice of paths, the traditional route or a five kilometre shorter high level route. Five kilometres shorter would have clinched it for me but the route is through forests, and as it had been raining the day beefore and for part of the night, it might also still be muddy. Plus it was a higher ascent in total. Jorge had slipped and I had had a fall and I didn't want another one.

The traditional path was along rural roads or gravel paths and less of a total ascent, and all of a sudden five extra kilometres didn't seem so bad. I tagged along with Lesley on the traditional route until we were out of town. 

Our paces were different and whilst she liked to go at her speed and saviour teh scenery, I find it difficult to walk slowly as I have a task to complete to reach the next hotel and whilst it is not a race, I am chopping at the bit to get ahead. The only issue was that every morning start is up hill.

Settlements are often located in the bottoms of valleys where the land is flatter and fertile. There is often a river or stream for water supplies. Settlements grow up around bridge crossings or around forts that are built to protect river crossings. Therefore accommadation is also located in these settlements. And that is why every morning it is a climb up the valley sides away from the river/bridge/settlement to follow el Camino.

The route out of Mondonedo follows the same pattern with a walk through the centre of the settlement and then up a steep hill. We were soon out of the urban fringe but it was a struggle up a steep slope. I couldn't march ahead as the terrain was still so steep and challenging. I only left her for her contemplative walk when the route reached some level ground. 

The terrain may have changed but there was still mist in the trees and low clouds obscuring the tops of the hills. Looking back down the valley, there was clouds in the valleys and although some of the tops of hills were in the sunlight, it was cool as the sun had yet to warm up the atmosphere to banish the low clouds and mist. 

On some of the eastern facing slopes, the sun was warming the ground and there were patches of blue sky and sunlit fields. But there were only a few farms and no village shops. The guidebook had advised to stock up when you can as opportunities are few and far between. Galicia is the most thinly populated region that El Camino del Norte passes through. 

The Basque Country has a population density of 308.7 per square kilometre, the highest in Spain outside of Madrid whereas Galicia has just 91.5 people per square kilometre. For comparison purposes, England has a population density of 278 people per square kilometre.  

I knew that I was getting neat to the top of the valley as there were wind turbines scattered along the ridge line, slowly turning in the wind, although partially obscured by clouds.

Once in the high ground, the sun and wind had pushed the clouds away and it was at last a warm and sunny day. El Camino passes through farmland as it descends into Abidan and my evening stop.