Saturday, 4 May 2024

Kutaisi

Kutaisi

I had some time in Kutaisi. We arrived at the hotel, the Acro Palace Hotel that no local taxi driver seemed to have heard of, aned the name of the road had more than twenty letters but only three vowels, so unless you were used to speaking Georgian, or were a Mastermind contender who could remember odd combinations of letters, you would be lost.
First stop was the Bagrati Cathedral...a great place... but I had seen it before. Next door are the palaces of the kings and queens of Georgia but little remains, it is only a venue for the dedicated.  
Walking into the centre of the city, I paused near the bell tower of the Opera Theatre.
Inthe background of the first photo, but a more focused photo on the subject matter, were a view of teh statues  adorning the building. I was deeply disappointed to discover that just round the corner was the main entrance, a very fickle affair and not worthy of a photo. 
Next was the Soviet Sculpture Complex. I thought that it was a polite world for a load of weird sculptures and pieces of 'art' that the comon working man woul never have understood. But if eveer questioned in Soviet times, that you had visited Kutaisi, you would have been expected to recite the appearance and meaning of the Soviet Communist statues.
There are several images...
of various natures...

...but without a guide of any information boards in English, I was at a loss as to what this was all about.



Hot springs

 Hot springs

We stopped in Zugdidi for the second time on our way back from Mestia for lunch and for the cook group to go shopping. I had lunch on the hoof. I walked up the main road through the centre to visit Prince Nico Dadiani's Palace. As it was Easter, it was shut for the religious holiday but the grounds were open.

The Queen's palace.
Prince Nico Dadian's place.


A detail of the main gate.
A side view of the main gate showing that carriages could park in front of the gates and passengers could alight in the dry.
                                                 
The church in the grounds of the palace which was open to the public.
One of the gates into the park...
...and another gate leading from the town into the grounds.
We left Zugdidi to drive for a couple of hours to our next bush camp. We stopped at some hot springs. The steam rising from the two springs.


The outflow from the springs towards the river.
The waterfall and travertine where the hot water flows onto the beach.
Te beach area on the side of the river. People can stand under the waterfall or scoop out a hollow on the beach and lie in the hot water.                             
We left the hot springs and drove just a few kilometres up the road to our bush camp. The weather forecast was for more rain. Luckily, it held off for just long enough for us to get the large tarpaulin out to cook under and to eat. It was the first time we had put it up and it took us half an hour. But it was worth it as it started to rain again and continued throughout the night.

In the morning we drove on towards Kutaisi, Georgia's second largest city. En route we could have stopped to see some dinosaur foor prints. No one seemed interested and we also learnt that they were shut anyway.

We tried to visit the Promethias Caves. But they too were shut for Easter. We arrived in Kutaisi for lunch and a home stay.

Thursday, 2 May 2024

Mestia Tower House

 Mestia Tower House

I visited the Ragliani Family Tower House. 

Every community in the valley has a tower house. They were used when there was civil strife, enemy invasion or as protection against marauding bandits. They all all built to the same design. The lowest floor is for the farm animals. The next level is for the family to live in. Then there are four more small storerooms, accessed by steep ladders that can be pulled up to prevent access to the upper storeys. From the top level, there are openings looking down, three on each side from which the occupiers can cast down a shower of arrows on attackers.
A view of the family accommadation...
...more insides...
...a hole in the floor to access water from a spring...
...another view of the family space...
...looking out of one of the windows of the tower to the roof of the family space... 
...a view of the other side of the tower looking down...

...and a view of the neighbouring towers.


I had lunch in a cafe overlooking the main square. Bred beef stew and some wine...but no vegetables except what few were included in the stew.
                                        

A picture of the back of one of the waiters' T-shirt, an outline of the country with the two black areas being Putin supported breakaway areas of Abkhasia and South Ossetia.

Mestia, Svaneti, Georgia

 Mestia, Svaneti, Geogia

I walked into the old centre but enroute, everywhere there was new buildings being constructed...

...one behind my hotel...
...another view of it...
...and numerous blocks of flats.
A monument in a public park in Zugdidi where we stopped for lunch.

Then the road climbed into the mountains.

We drove along a road high up above the reservoir formed by the Enduri Arch Dam.
There were many views of the reservoir.
The road to Mestia is the most scenic route that I have discovered in Georgia. It passes through wild and untamed mountain scenery...
...on a single road that weaves its way along the valley side. It is 134 kilometres from Jvari through the mountains to Mestia. And it would take us more than four hours.
There are great views for the passengers but the driver  must keep his wits about him on sharp turns, steep gradients and sometimes sheer drops at the side of the road without any crash barriers or bollards.
In places there are short tunnels but nothing like the major construction projects we had recently seen on busier main roads. 
The river flows out of the base of a glacier. It is cold but also choked with rock flour and is grey. It is constantly eroding the banks and deepening its course.


We could see the river for most of the route. In some places it was flowing in a deep and narrow channel and at other times it was wide and shallow. The surface was still a churning mass of cross currents but the changes in deep and breadth allowed bridges to be built to give access to the far side. 

We passed a former industrail site with huge concrete buildings and large former offices and dormortories for the workers. There were no windows left in any of the soaces in the concrete walls for windows. Everything was rusty with heaps of rubble piled up everywhere. It may have been a busy place once, but now it was an industrial wasteland.

There were several tunnel entrances into the valley sides on both sides of the river, visible from the road. There were some entrances that were partially submerged by the river. Someting had once been mined here in the Soviet era but there was no clue as to what it might have been.
The constant erosion also meant that the sides of the valley were undercut. With the loss of support, some sections of the road collapsed reducing traffic to a single carriageway. 
A view of the main river...

...and a view up a tributary...

...and a view of the road ahead. The white splodge is not a waterfall, it is a bank of snow.
Snow on the surrounding mountain tops...
...a view back down the valley...
...some of the snow covered mountain tops...
...and another view back down the valley.

We reached Mestia in the late afternoon. I have read claims that tere is an airport here but given the terrain, it can't be nearby or is only tiny for small aircaft to take off from a field shared with livestock. The settlement sits at an altitude of 1,400 metres. Most people seem to have an altitude app on their phones or watches, but the results differed between providers by up to ten metres. I was not going to  be pedantic. I am only writing a book, not planning a ten year deep space mission where being out by a few metres or seconds here and there would be a big disaster.

We had a few minutes in the centre of town. We couldn't find any public conveniences. The tourist information centre was closed, as were several hotels, bars and shops.SOme had to buy a coffee or beer to get access to a toilet. 

We left town and drove further up into the mountains to find a bush camp. It was another 100 metres elevation before we found a suitable spot. It was off a quiet road, had some flat spaces to pitch a tent, didn't seem too muddy and therefore not able to support the weight of the truck and had enough forest nearby to investigate and collect firewood to cook the evening meal. 


Several people have asked me about cook groups and bush campimg, so here are a few photos and some explanation. Two fo the cook group preparing vegetables...
...a general view of the truck with the cook group working at tables in front of it and as you come away from the central feature, there is a fire and a tent for two.




Thia is photo of the same scene but from further back to indicate the scattering of people's preferred tent pitches within sight of the truck but not necessarily near as some people snored. In more dangerous locations, the tents would be much nearer to each other.
Our evening meal cooking. A kettle for tea or coffee, some chicken in the frying pan and rice in the large pot.